2247 牛排 (谢谢娃娃锡兵!)(2 / 2)

“干式熟成的牛排,不能用冷冻过的牛肉,因为冷冻肉的纤维组织已经被破坏了,没有办法熟成,只能用新鲜的整块的牛肉,熟成好之后再进行分割。

“把一大块一大块的牛肉放在架子上,温度始终保持在零度到4度,湿度50-80%,空气流通度为0.5-2m/s,在这漫长的几个月的时间,温度、湿度和空气流通度,就要靠人观察肉质的变化,做出微调,所以干式熟成,又很像是酿酒,手艺的高低决定成品的质量。

“同样的和牛或者安格斯牛肉,不同的工艺师熟成之后,区别很大,售价也会有好几倍的差距,所以干式熟成,大家更加看中它的品牌或者是口碑,最顶级的牛排馆,都有自己的熟成室,每一块熟成牛排,都是在大厨严密监控下做出来的,带有他們自己的偏好和印记。

“干式熟成的牛肉外层与表皮油脂因水分蒸发风干,有助于锁住内部的水分,让内部维持鲜肉般的质地,肉质肌理变得更紧实,相对来说,油花也更集中,因此干式熟成过的牛肉会更鲜甜,会带有一种特殊的坚果香味。

“也像陈年的火腿,我们要食用的时候,肯定会用刀把火腿修整过,去掉外面的氧化层,干式熟成的牛肉,外面也会有一层壳,需要把这层壳去掉,这样,你能得到的,大概只有百分之七十左右的肉可以食用。

“这么费时、费力、还费食材,所以哪怕最普通的干式熟成牛排,价格都不便宜,好的干式熟成牛排,就这么一小块,卖一千多块钱人民币都很正常。”

顾工说完,看着大家,把双手一摊,意思是,好了,我说完了,你们还有什么问题。

老齐点了点头说:“顾工,我还真长见识这里,做了几十年的厨师,我还第一次懂这么多,算是把牛排搞清楚了。”

顾工笑道:“这很正常啊,你是中餐厨师,又不是西餐厨师,中餐厨师完全可以不懂牛排,也不用懂,要是西餐厨师,连牛排也不会煎,就和中餐厨师不会炒青菜一样,他们才需要懂。”

老齐笑笑,他想了一下,说:“还是需要懂,听你这么一说,好像这里的牛肉做法,都是不懂吃牛肉的。”

“真的无所谓。”顾工说,“虾有虾路,蟹有蟹道,食物是给人吃的,不管怎么做,只要让人吃得高兴,吃得开心就好,来这里的人,要是觉得动动的,动动的牛肉才是最新鲜的,他吃的时候就有这样先入为主的想法,吃起来就会很开心,这就可以了。

“很多东西,只是一个说法,就像我们,去街边的苍蝇蚊子馆,也一样可以吃得很开心,觉得很美味,就不要要求自己每餐都必须去五星级的酒店了,那些东西,知道了尝过了就可以,并不一定适合我们的胃。”

“顾工,你这话说的很有道理。”刘立杆叫道。

“本来就是。”顾工说,“西方人拿牛肉做牛排,牛排才会有这么多讲究,我们中国人,吃牛肉也吃了几千年了,我们从来不做牛排,牛肉就不好吃了?我们炒着吃,卤着吃,也一样好吃。”

顾工说着扭头朝外面看看,他看了看对面那排卖牛肉的摊子,叹了口气,说:

“可惜了。”

“怎么了?”老齐问。

“黄牛其实并不适合做肉牛。”顾工说,“我的意思,不是说它的肉质不够好,黄牛的肉质,有自己独特的风味,就像我说的,你哪怕拿和牛的肉,要是来炒,都比不过黄牛。

“黄牛最大的缺点是体型太小,它一直以来只是作为役牛,也就是干活的牛,所以我们说一个人干活干得辛苦,叫老黄牛,也正因为它一直是役牛,所以它的肉质才会这么紧实,最适合小炒。

“但如果把它当作食肉牛,就不划算了,世界上有名的几种食肉牛,无非就是和牛、安格斯牛、奎宁牛和夏洛特牛这么几种,它们的体格都很高大,一千多斤两千多斤,黄牛能到一千斤的就很少……”

“我们仙沟的小黄牛,一般也就六七百斤。”老齐说。

顾工点点头:“所以我说可惜,你们想想,同样的饲养周期,同样的饲料,最后出肉率差不多要少一半,是不是可惜?张总,你的饲养场,我觉得第一步,只要能培育出肉质不变,但体型高大的仙沟小黄牛,就是个小成就了。”

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